Day 10: A Hamam & A Harem, Part 2

We wander around for a while looking for the entrance to Topkapi Palace. Outside the grounds there was a beautiful park with people and children walking, grazing, & playing. The children seemed to recognize us as American because they kept saying "Hello!" and waving. We would say hello back and they would just giggle. It was adorable.

Rooftops along the walk to Topkapi

The path through the grounds/park outside Topkapi

Once we got in, we went straight for the Harem (which costs extra) because it is said to be the highlight of the old palace. The harem had more than 400 rooms and was where the sultan's mother and his wives and concubines lived. How the world has changed! It was beautiful!!  Horror vacui to the max! Tiled walls and floors, ornate and organic designs, beautiful horse-shoe arches. Everything that I love!

Exterior of the harem

The roses were beautiful!

Inside the harem

Can you believe that view?

Exterior of the harem from a distance

After a couple hours of exploring the grounds, we grew tired. Christine bought a map of the grounds, so we could see what all we had left to see, only to learn that we had seen everything. Ha. So, we walk back to Eminonu where we hop a ferry back to Kadikoy where we plan on meeting Figen, our host. We stop at an ATM in Kadikoy and a street boy comes up begging for me to buy a little pack of tissues from him. When I say no, he pretends to cry. I shooed him off and he smiled at me and ran away. The little devil.

Figen takes us to a little "fast food" restaurant where she insists we try Aryan (which is like a yogurt-milk drink) and Pecumseh (kind of like a thin folded pizza). Up to this point, we had seen everyone drinking Aryan, but didn't know what it was. It is definitely not for us. Figen says it's a favorite summer beverage. I'll pass on the thick milk during 90 degree weather.

Then we walk along the water, talking about this and that, learning more about Figen. A truly amazing, inspirational woman. So open and at peace with who she is and where she is in life. After we work up an appetite we grab dinner up in Moda (an artsy area of Istanbul, where we later couchsurf) at a restaurant called Cafe DoDo. I have some delicious vegetable dish covered with cheese. Then Figen suggest we get ice cream (gotta love this girl) at a nearby shop. The sun may have set, but Moda seems to just be coming alive. We continue to walk and talk as we wander back toward Figen's. Eventually we catch a dolmus and ride it back. 

A candid of Christine & I taken by Figen as we walk along the water.

A perfect end to a really great day. I knew Istanbul would steal my heart if I gave it another chance. This was just the beginning. There really is nothing like exploring a city with a local. And living with them is better. Figen was so kind to spend time with us, to share customs of her culture with us, and open up her heart and mind to us. I'm forever grateful. Tomorrow we part with her.